Knitted body architectures – Autumn/Winter 17 by Laura Theiss

As we stepped into September and the weather changed, fashion weeks around the world are set to inspire us for the coming fashion season. Knitwear designer Laura Theiss has created a new hand-made crochet collection. Remind yourself of her Spring/Summer 17 crochets.

Knitted architectures

Architectural projects are divided in different phases: the sketching stage is followed by the creation of physical and digital models. When construction finally starts, the planned building is laid out step by step. Theiss followed the same approach for her Autumn/Winter 2017 collection. The designer sketched, then hand-made her crocheted and knitted swatches and finally assembled them together.

Skirts, tops and dresses were made combining traditional crocheted squares, but the latter were turned into tiles characterised by intricately petaled and radiant rose window-like motifs at their centre.

Autumn / Winter 2017 collection

The aesthetic and technical possibilities of classic braid cable knits was explored in merino wool sweaters. Their configuration was deconstructed and the braids were undone to reveal painstakingly knitted and crocheted metallic yarn surfaces underneath. In some cases thick gray cable knit motifs were employed to create effects that mimicked the rib configuration of Gothic vaults or the supporting structures of suspended bridges.

Theiss played with proportional variations, twisting architectural formations in a feminine way: a dusty pink crocheted cocktail dress features a trellis-like motif in a bright metallic green yarn that calls to mind the web vault of the Lady Chapel in Wells Cathedral, Somerset. The future was very much on Theiss’ mind: the designer employed digital techniques like her signature kaleidoscope motifs in her crocheted pieces and, inspired by technical glitches, introduced a variable in a dress with a black and white rhomboid figures pattern. Wearability remains a must, though, with an offer that includes functional pieces such as practical bomber jackets in organza and small accessories like crocheted gloves.

Architecture and fashion

Fashion is transient and changeable, while architecture is grounded and permanent, but, moving from traditions, Laura Theiss’ designs accompany the wearers into the future, preserving the same timeless values of architecture.

Laura Theiss - A/W17 photograph 1 - knitted crochet dresses Laura Theiss - A/W17 photograph 2 - knitted crochet black and white dress Laura Theiss - A/W17 photograph 3 - knitted garments Laura Theiss - A/W17 photograph 4 - knitted and crocheted tops Laura Theiss - A/W17 photograph 5 - modern crochets Laura Theiss - A/W17 photograph 6 - modern knit and crochet Laura Theiss - A/W17 photograph 7 - knitted tops Laura Theiss - A/W17 photograph 8 - knitted and crochet details Laura Theiss - A/W17 photograph 9 - organza jacket with crochet details

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